Five Days in Paris, December 2018

I found a flight to Paris for $508. I had to go. Obviously.

Paris bar dogs are my brand.

That's how I found myself landing at Charles de Gaulle in mid-December. My friend Jenna loves Paris too much to let me go alone. So, as soon as we dropped our luggage at the Renaissance Republique, we were off in search of delicious things at Holybelly. Normally, the line to get in Holybelly is prohibitively long. But, with the yellow vest protests in full effect, Saturday in the city was a lot more mellow. We got a table quickly and were being served coffee and pancakes minutes later.

Breakfast at Holybelly

I know that people will tell you to just power through. But, I'm a fan of the 3 hour mid day nap. Otherwise, I get miserable quickly.

After I woke up, we went off in search of pre-dinner drinks and landed at the iconic Willi's Wine Bar. Willi's was great, but mostly we were killing time before dinner at Juveniles Wine Bar. Juveniles ended up being my favorite meal of the trip. It was delicious, affordable and paired with a killer Beaujolis. I spent the next five days considering buying a wine suitcase to go back there and bring a case home with me.

Sea Bream over a sweet potato puree and sweet potato chips at Juveniles Wine Bar

More than any of my other Paris visits, I just wandered neighborhoods, worked from the WeWork in Marais and discovered new places to love. A sampling of favorites from this trip, follow:

Dinner:

• Ellsworth (oysters from Omaha Beach paired with fried chicken)
• Frenchie (I actually like Frenchie Bar a Vins best) 
• Pierre Sang (insane tasting menu with bottles of wine pairing)
• Le Pantruche (classic French bistro in Le Pigalle)

Cocktails: 

• Moonshiners (speakeasy, accessed through a pizza joint)
• The 46 Bar (classic cocktails in Republique)
• Lavomatic (speakeasy, enter through a washing machine door in an actual laundry facility)
• Bisou (no menu, just tell the bartender what you like)

Wine Bars: 

• Freddy's Wine Bar (great wine, great cheese, awesome bartenders)
• L'Avant Comptoir (don't miss the massive ball of butter on the bar - and the menu items hang from the ceiling)
• Martin (recommended by the bartender at Bisou across the street)
• Verjus Bar a Vins (tucked away in an adorable nook, with great wine)

Wine and cheese at Freddy's

Lunch Spots: 

• Mokonuts (get a reservation for lunch or walk in for cookies, baked goods)
• Mr. T in Le Marais (loved this spot for innovative comfort food in a cool atmosphere)

The famous cookies at Mokonuts

Shops

• La Super Marquette - cute Parisian gifts, home goods
• Chatelles - customized flats (bows, monograms, poofs, tassels, etc.)
• Jimmy Fairly - the Warby Parker of Paris... great specs and sunnies at affordable prices